The fan that was not working most likely caused the board to fail. Replacing the board should get you back going.
Ge refrigerator control board test install#
I ordered a new control board and plan to install that tonight! Could it be, that the evaporator fan caused the resistors to burn even though it continues to function well? I'm hoping I don't fry the new board :) The evaporator fan still works great and the fridge is all working well, cooling, circulating, etc. Not actually black or charred, just kind dark around both resistors. I looked at the control board and there is "darkening, smoky appearance" around both resistors. I replaced the water assembly (very easy) and replaced the compressor fan motor, but compressor fan still didn't run. I turned off the water and put a floor fan running constantly on the coils until repaired. Water leaking wasn't as big a deal in comparison. Luckily I noticed it in time before the compressor overheated because the water assembly was leaking which caused me to pull out the fridge so I noticed the larger problem of the fan not running. I have a GE GSCS3KGYAFSS and the compressor fan stopped running. How do I know which fan, evaporator or condenser, is controlled by which resistor so I know which fan corresponds to the burnt resistor? However, I can't quite make out the label for the burnt resistor. The resistor that is not burnt is labeled R96 on the circuit board. Your other post stated that if a resistor was burnt the fan must be replaced as the fan is likely what caused the control board to fail in the first place. One of the two fan resistors on the control board is burnt. Per that post this means I need to change the control board. I have 120VAC power at the input to the main control board but no DC power at the J2 connector on the board. I followed the a procedure to test the main control board on my refrigerator on one of your posts. However, a couple of days ago both the refrigerator and freezer sections totally quite cooling overnight. It seemed to work fine for several months but then started making noises again but not nearly as often and not as loud so we have just been living with it since the repair was out of warranty. A repairman came out and put in a new evap fan but evidently put it in backwards (or so he said) as it started making noises again within a couple of weeks so he came back out and replaced it again (at no additional charge to me). My evaporator fan started making erratic noises, often very loud, a couple of years ago.
Ge refrigerator control board test manual#
I could not find a service manual or schematic for the refrigerator on the internet and would appreciate any guidance anyone may have on this issue. Not 100% sure on this diagnosis since the fuse on the board was not blown on either board. I am hesitant to plug it in again and suspect something is drawing too much power (compressor, fan, or other). I unplugged it and opened up the control board compartment again and noticed the same large resistor was blackened a bit. Refrigerator came on for a bit and when I unplugged it and buttoned it up and plugged it back in the refrigerator was not working again - compressor and fan were not coming on. I ordered a new one and swapped them out. Several components were clearly fried large resister, small capacitor, and two surface mount chips (might be transitors). Did a little reseach and then opened the compartment up for the control board. There was a faint burnt electronics smell. No issues until recently when everything stopped working except the interior lights. I have a six and a half year old side by side GE refrigerator model GSL25JFPHBS.
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